Installation Instructions for Wheels
Tire & Tube Installation — When installing the tire and tube, be sure to:

1. Sprinkle talc powder inside the tire to allow the tube to “move” to its seated position easily.

2. The red dot on the tire(if so marked) is the lightest part of the tire. Install the tire so that the red dot is adjacent to the white dot on the tube (if so marked) or the valve stem.

3. Lubricate the valve stem with a small amount of grease prior to pushing it through the grommet on the wheel.

4. Take care not to “pinch” the tube when assembling the wheel halves.

Lubricate Wheel Bearings — Grove Aircraft wheels are shipped with only a light protective coating of Aeroshell 22 grease on the bearings. Prior to use on the aircraft, you must remove and lubricate both tapered roller bearings on each wheel, using Aeroshell 22, Mobile 28, Mobile SHC 100 or equivalent.

Click here for special lubrication requirements for Amphibious Wheels.

Torque Wheel Bolts & Nuts — Torque the wheel tie bolts to the value specified on the wheel label. Typically this value is 90 inch-pounds for 500x5 wheels, and 90 inch-pounds; for 600x6 wheels.

Pre-Load Wheel Bearings — It is important that the axle nut be tightened properly. With the aircraft jacked up, rotate the wheel and tire while hand-tightening the axle nut until it is hand-tight. The wheel and tire should rotate freely with little or no drag. If not, loosen the axle nut just enough so that the wheel and tire are on the “edge” of rotating freely. Install a safety cotter pin through the axle nut and axle. Check to see that the installed cotter pin does not interfere with the valve stem, or any other part of the wheel and tire assembly.
 
Installation Instructions for Brakes
Use the Proper Brake Fluid — Improper brake fluid will ruin the seals in the brake system. Use only standard aircraft Mil-H-5606 red hydraulic fluid. Never use automotive brake fluid! Click here to learn more about aircraft brake fluids.

Bleed the Brakes — The best method to fill and bleed aircraft brakes is from the bottom up. Loosely connect a 1/8" ID clear hose to the brake caliper bleeder screw from your brake fluid source. An oil can used exclusively for this purpose works well. Pump the oil can until the hose is full of fluid, with no air bubbles. Tightly secure the hose to the bleeder valve, while opening it a quarter turn. Pump fluid into the system until it fills the brake cylinder reservoir. (The reservoir filler or vent cap must be open during this process). Tighten the bleeder valve screw, remove the hose, and reseal the reservoir. Check your work by insuring that the reservoir is full and that you have a “hard pedal.”
If you have a “soft-pedal,” pump the brakes several times. Many times that will fix the problem. If the problem persists, drain the fluid and repeat the above process.
Tighten and Safety Wire the Brake Calipers — Torque the brake caliper bolts to 80 inch-pounds, and then safety wire.

Seat the Brake Pads — These non-asbestos organic composition brake pads require a thin layer of glazed material at the lining friction surface in order to provide maximum braking performance. This glazed layer is produced by the heat generated during normal braking operations, and is maintained during the life of the lining. Since new brake pads do not have this layer, it must be created by the following process:

1. Heat the pads by “dragging the brakes” while taxiing at a slow speed with moderate power. Do not use maximum braking pressure.

2. Allow the brakes to cool for 5 - 10 minutes

3. Test the results at full static run-up. If the brakes hold, break-in is complete. If they fail to hold, repeat steps 1 and 2 until they do.
 

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